Owari no Seraph uniform skirt tutorial

This tutorial will talk about how to make the black (if you are making a Mika cosplay) or green (if you are making anyone else) pleat parts in the coat. It assumes that you already have an existing coat pattern.

I wasn’t actually going to make a tutorial about this, but then I saw people struggling with it, so I decided to make one anyway. However, after reading this about half a year later, I feel like there is still a lot lacking in this tutorial, and I’m planning to create a more in-dept guide in the future.

It is easiest if you make the coat out of a bottom and a top part. As you can see on this picture, both Mika and Yuu have a belt. You can easily hide the seam here. I always refer to this bottom part as a skirt, because that is kind of what it resembles.

For this tutorial, I will use Mika’s colours, because that’s the one I made, but of course this also works for all the other uniforms.

For the bottom part (what I like to call the ‘skirt’ part, because come on, it looks like a skirt, doesn’t it?), you just need the original pattern pieces of the coat and a big triangle. If your pattern doesn’t have a seam where the black part starts, make one. The triangle pattern should be bigger than what you want your final triangle to look like, because the white fabric will fold over it. The width of your triangle should be the final shape of your triangle + twice the width of the pleat.

This is what my pattern looks like:

Now sew the pieces right side together, like what you would do with any other pieces.

My example is made with the pattern pieces, because I didn’t take any pictures of this step.

As you can see the top is waaay to wide, but don’t worry, now it’s time to introduce the miracle working: an iron.

Press the wrong sides together like in the picture below (the top part). It is important that there’s no black showing on the white side, so it’s easiest to press it so that there’s a tiny strip of white showing on the black side.

Now mark the middle of the triangle at the top and at the bottom. I find it best to use pins to do this, because they don’t leave marks. Take the edge that you just ironed, and fold it so that the edge lines up with your marks. Pin everything down and press it. It is important though that you don’t put your iron on the pins, because they can heat up and burn your fabric. This step is also pictured above, but on the other side.

Now do the same with the other side. The white parts now touch each other, but don’t worry, once you take out the pins, gravity and movement will make it so that it will fall open and you will be able to see the black layer.

Before you take out the pins, baste the top so it won’t fall open.

Repeat with all four other triangles and this will be the result 🙂

Now in the top picture, the triangles only start a little bit below the belt. If you want that, you can put the seams next to each other again and topstitch them a few centimeters (or sew them by hand, if you don’t want the seam to be visible)

I hope this helps! If you have any questions, feel free to ask me!